2023 Indi-Pac Day 9 Report

Sunday March 26, 2023: As it was quite the late finish last night – 3:40am arrival (which included a +2.5 hour time zone change), plus at least an hour to calm down after a hectic ride in, I gave myself a reprieve by not setting my alarm. I was up at 9:30am with more to pack than usual as I had left my bivy, sleeping bag and mattress laid out to air after last nights fun and games. I gave the items a cursory sniff and was pleasantly surprised by the lack of ammonia smell……..with the exception of my blow up pillow……..mmmmm excellent. Might just strap that to the outside of my pack.

Out into the mid morning fresh air and straight to the food department of the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Di was there! She had only recently arrived, having ridden through the night from Border Village. She also had some interesting stories about that stretch, involving copping some pretty hardcore abuse on her 2 way radio from passing truckers. It got to the point where she had to turn it off.

(99% of the truckers are consummate professionals and top blokes, 1% are the opposite, ie cowboy arseholes. There were plenty of the 1% out there last night.)

As Di and I were chat chat chatting away we were joined by Silvia Freidrich, the sister of Raymond Friedrich (aka “2 Wheel Vagabond”). She had driven to the Nullarbor Roadhouse from her home town in Whyalla, South Australia to hang out with her brother who had been convalescing with bad saddle sores since Thursday. He was back at earlier this morning.

The 3 of us chatted for a while. I then made ready to hit the road and the increasingly nocturnal Di went to get a room.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Great chat with Di.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Silvia’s Facebook post commemorating the catch up.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Me filming Silvia filming me.

A couple of pedal strokes onto the Eyre Highway and I was hit by 2 things…….1. The beautiful peace and quite, and 2. The easy forward progress.

Surely not!

Yep, a pure tail wind……….a delightful south westerly.

Fire up tunes to 11…..

…..Sound of the drums
Beating in my heart
The thunder of guns
Tore me apart
You’ve been


Sunday March 26, 2023: C’Mon!

Sunday March 26, 2023: West bound cyclist complaining about the head wind……đŸ˜‚đŸ˜‚đŸ˜‚

The first 25k’s flew by in under 50 minutes whilst I sung and shouted like a mad man. Optimism at fever pitch.

The second 25k’s……….ditto.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Still caning it.

The 3rd 20k’s took substantially longer – a combination of heavier rain, hills and less wind assistance.

Time for a break.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Rain getting a tad heavier and the Eyre Highway getting a little lumpier.

Sunday March 26, 2023: ok, if you insist.

I met some real life Gray Nomads…..

I’d seen plenty in the wild but never had the pleasure of conversing in the flesh. I heard all about their travels and their gluten free diet. Longevity obviously key for the modern day nomad…..Gray Nomad 2.0.

…..lovely people but I could have done with a 20 min stop vs what became an hour off the bike. At least though my drenched kit got more time to dry.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Drying out my kit.

Sunday March 26, 2023: My new Gray Nomad friends.

“Familiar” Roads

My family are Sydney people but from circa 1976 through 1982 we lived in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. As we were now living closer to my Mum’s sister in Ceduna we’d occasionally hit the velour seats of Dad’s Fiat 132 and drive the 8 or so hours to visit her, her husband and their 2 crazy poodles.

My Aunty was the matron of Ceduna Hospital at the time and did a lot of outreach to the Aboriginal Communities west of Ceduna. One of these was the community at Yalata of which she was on particular friendly terms. One time we drove out to meet some of her friends. It was a incredibly interesting experience for my sister and I.  There was a Roadhouse at Yalata on the Eyre Highway back then from which we were able to purchase some artifacts made by local artisan Jimmy He Good Fella (his actual name). I still have the didgeridoo, a spear and some clapsticks, each adorned with the most exquisite artwork.

Anyway, long story short all roads and scenery thus far traversed in the Indi-Pac, I had never seen before. From Yalata onwards there would be some familiar sights.

Sunday March 26, 2023: There is no longer a Roadhouse at Yalata, just self serve petrol and an under cover meeting place which actually could be quite a good camping spot.

Changing Country

Who needs words when you have video: (no shouting this time…..promise)

Making friends at the Nundroo Roadhouse

I rolled up to the rather bleak looking Nundroo Roadhouse at 6:15pm.

The choice between a warm bed here or put in another few hours and camp in the wet was an easy one. Glad I did – the roadhouse specialty was curry so I ate 2 in the restaurant and took another back to the room for breakfast the next morning. Over dinner I had a lovely chat with my new best mate, Scott who was in the process of driving cross country from Perth to Canberra, relocating back to his hometown after 10 years in Perth and a recently failed marriage.

Mmmm, I hope the curries sit ok tomorrow.

Sunday March 26, 2023: Nundroo Roadhouse comin’ up….

Sunday March 26, 2023: Nundroo Roadhouse.

Sunday March 26, 2023: My new best mate, Scott. Top bloke.

Sunday March 26, 2023: My digs at the Nundroo Roadhouse.

The Day According to Strava:



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